Somewhere during my ownership of my two 750’s, I came to discover that the stock header pipes with the cross-over pipe noticeably helps the performance of these bikes.
On one 750, I had a complete stock exhaust system, with rotted out ends. This bike pulled like a freight train; waaaaaaay better than the other 750 that was otherwise identical except for a non-crossover system with Jardine Classics (that breathe very well).
So when I replaced the rotted stock system, I made sure to retain the stock headers and crossover, but replace only the rotted mufflers. Unfortunately, I didn’t take pictures or notes of that work on that bike. However, I finally got sick of the power difference between the two bikes, and decided to add the crossover to the other bike as well… And *this* time, I got pics… So here we go…
First, the parts. Besides a complete stock exhaust system to be cut up, you need a few things:
Optionally, fiber wrap (because in my case, the pipes are cosmetically challenged):And the stainless steel straps to hold the wrap in place:And the high-temp paint to 1.) paint the pipes after sanding and before wrapping and, 2.) paint the wrap after it dries (from wetting during application):And of course, muffler clamps (again, from Dennis Kirk)… you don’t want your mufflers to fall off do you? Or leak…:First, you have to cut the stock mufflers off the stock headers. Inside the pipes, underneath the chrome and the outer pipe of the double-wall pipe, there is a gap between where the inner-wall of the header pipe and the baffle in the muffler almost meet up. This is where you cut.Looking inside the now-cut-off muffler, you can see how close I cut next to the baffle pipe, just catching the edge of it:Here’s the whole carcass:But now here’s where you approach the main catch of this whole thing. At this point, you have to clean up the left-over bits of the muffler that are still welded to the header pipe. But, once you grind all that off, you have to keep going; because the clean pipe is actually about 1 9/16 inches. This means that your 1 1/2 inch slip-on does not yet fit. So, grind, grind, grind, and let me tell you; this pipe is no soft metal… Here’s what it looks like ground down to about 1 1/2 inch:Then, if you haven’t already at this point, it’s time to optionally apply the fiber wrap. You need to sand the pipes, paint them with the high-temp paint, let that dry, apply the wrap (wetting it along the way), let the wrap dry overnight and/or in the sun, and then paint the wrapped pipes again, this time to seal it from the elements. Here’s a look at the wrapped, but as-yet un-painted headers:…and a close-up of the top strap in action. Note that I started at about the place where the pipes clear the head; you don’t want to start to close to the beginning, or you can’t get the header clamp in place. Also note that at the start of the wrap, you wrap it *under*, so the loose end is not exposed: …and here’s the other end, where you really need to fold the end of the wrap under before strapping it down… I did a sloppy job, but it won’t be visible… :Okay then! So in summary, here’s the requisite “before” pic, with the rusty, non-crossed-over headers, and Jardine Classics:And here’s the “after”, with the picture taken right before the first ride:And Did I mention they smoke like CRAZY when you do this? Oh yeah… make sure that when you take your first ride, you stay in motion, or you will be bathed in the rising noxious smoke of the baking paint and fiber… Anyway, here’s the “after” taken right after the first 15 minute ride, with the freshly wrapped pipes still smoking… :And a little closer view of the pipes:And another pose:And finally, once from the rear: