Yep, it’s true. After almost 20 years, I finally decided to turn in my Lead-Acid battery for an Absorbed Glass Mat (AGM) battery.
When the time came in 2021 to replace the battery I had bought in 2016 (and it should’ve been replaced long ago), I just couldn’t resist the temptation of not having to deal with topping off the water level again, a twice-or-more time per year ritual. The price was only like $15 more for the AGM, so I couldn’t *not*, you know?
No more more over-flow tube and all the hassle. No more distilled water top-offs. Heck, the connectors are even easier to use. And, the size is EXACT, if you use the models I used.
When I asked the folks at Auto-zone, I assumed there was no way that the KZ750 twin would be in their database for proper matches… I was half-right: while the ’78 KZ750 Twin is not listed, there, is a listing for an ’80 750 “B” model that was wrong. On the other hand, there was a valid/correct listing for the ’80 KZ750 G.. and since the ’80 G is a sister model to the ’78 B, that’s what we went with and it was a perfect match replacement.
The old model is a “CB14L-A2FP”, and the new model is a Duralast Gold ETX15L.
So I thought I’d let y’all know. But you probably switch years ago anyway… 😉
Question: my engine is stamped KZ750BE, title shows ‘76 model. Partzilla and Kawasaki show KZ750B1 and B2? Are they the same engine?
@Victor – Yep, the B1 and B2 were basically the same bike with the same engine. But be careful, because in ’78 the B3 engine had a changed dynamo and regulator, and also therefore some wiring changes. -‘Toast