Half of a DYNA-S for the KZ750 Twin

If you’re like me, you’ve heard about people using a DYNA-S DS2-2 (by DynaTek) Electronic Ignition — meant for KZ550/KZ650 four-cylinder — on a KZ750 Twin.  I’ve been wanting to do it for a long time, but between my two 750s, my Newtronic has been rock-steady on one bike, and the points have been good for ten years on my other bike.  Well, it came time once again to adjust the points, and I decided that meant it was time to eliminate the points and finally try the mod.

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DYNA-S DS2-2 In Box

So I ordered the DYNA-S from z1Enterprises.com, and as you can see in the picture of the contents, I ordered an extra rotor too.  Why?  Well, because I have two twins, and if it goes well, I intend to use the other half for my other 750.  The guys at z1Enterprises.com explained that they keep extra Dyna parts on hand for these type of special requirements, so it was no big deal to add that to my order.

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Dyna-S Box Contents

First I had to disassemble the pickups from the rotor, since first one needs to be relocated, and the second isn’t needed.

4-StartingDisassembly

Pickup & Plate Disassembly (1)

Here it is, all apart.  Note the hole locations.

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Pickup & Plate Disassembly (2)

Gently beginning the slicing apart of the protective wraps and coatings.

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Twin Separation Surgery (1)

A bit like Siamese twin surgery, as I work to separate the halves.

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Twin Separation Surgery (2)

Gently making my way along the length of the outer wrap, careful not to damage the inner wire wrap.

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Twin Separation Surgery (3)

Finally, the outer wrap removed and set aside (for reuse later).

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Twin Separation Surgery (4)

Here they are, un-intertwined.

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Twin Separation Surgery (5)

Here are the old points & condenser, before removal.

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Old Points

Here’s the auto-advancer, after points plate removed.

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Points Plate Removed

Then, remove the cylinder from the advancer.

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Removing Auto-Advancer Cylinder

Lubrication.

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Lubricating the Advancer Shaft

Now, the Dyna rotor goes in.

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Installing the Dyna Rotor (1)

Open the advancer legs to insert rotor.

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Installing the Dyna Rotor (2)

Finally, the rotor in position.

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Installing the Dyna Rotor (3)

Checking for closed.

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Installing the Dyna Rotor (4)

Checking for open.

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Installing the Dyna Rotor (5)

Now installing the Dyna plate over the rotor.

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Installing the Dyna Plate

Remember the sheathing we removed earlier? You can re-use it here if you don’t have something else to use.

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Reusing the Sheathing (1)

I used Liquid Electrical Tape along the length to re-seal the sheathing.

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Reusing the Sheathing (2)

You can see how I just followed along the seam, closed it up, and waited until dry.  *IMPORTANT*: Note where the pickup is mounted.  It is using both BOTTOM mounts, where both of the pickups were previously mounted.  I didn’t have to tap any new holes or anything.  Your results may vary.

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Reusing the Sheathing (3)

Here is the freshly-trimmed wire ready for connection.

23-TimingWire

Timing Wire

To quote KZRider.com forum member “loudhvx” from a recent post on the subject:

…you will time it the same way you would with points, but using voltage instead of continuity.

With ignition power on:
With a voltmeter on the negative side of the coil, that is the side the Dyna S is connected to, it should read low, near 1 volt or so, when the magnet is away from the pickup. Then it should read battery voltage, around 12v, when the magnet is aligned with the pickup.

Rotate the crank the opposite direction of the wheels (front and rear wheels of the bike) , so that the meter goes from 1v to 12v just as the F mark lines up with the pointer on the engine case. Adjust the position of the pickup as necessary to get that to happen.

Be aware, the coil is heating up anytime that voltmeter shows around 1v. Try to get the crank into a position so the voltage is 12v. That will let the coil be at rest. You don’t want to cook the coil. So turn the power on when you think the magnet is lined up with the pickup. Make sure the spark is able to discharge. That means have the plug wires hooked to the plugn in the engine, or at least make sure there is a path for the electricity from one plug wire to the other. If not, you can damage the Dyna S or the coil.

 

24-SettingStaticTiming

Setting Static Timing

And here’s me doing the static timing to get started.

The provided Dyna instruction also offer guidance for dynamic timing (Step #7 of “Timing Procedure”):

The engine can also be timed dynamically using a strobe light in the normal manner. Use the advance marks and an engine speed of about 2500 RPM (full advance).

 

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Setting Dynamic Timing

Now after it is started, use the strobe to dial it in.

26-FinalPosition1

Final Position (1)

Here it is in the final position.  And running perfectly.

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Final Position (2)

So can it be done?  And does it work?  Yes, it did for me.  No guarantees, I just wanted to try it.  If you want to toss your money at it go ahead.

..and, you may have noticed in the pictures that I actually installed both pickups just to experiment if there was any difference, and no there isn’t.

By the way, one P.S. here… After this mod, I noticed that the bike was much more dependent upon good ground and good power than before.  With points, I could get away with my old wiring, but once I did this mod I had electrical stalling issues.  Once I cleaned up all my grounds and fixed some power lines, it seemed to solve the problem.  Just a warning, that you probably shouldn’t do this if your wiring isn’t pristine!

I hope this helps!

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