Kawasaki Twins Owner’s Forum (KTOF)

Update, 2016: http://kz750twins.com/?page_id=600

The Kawasaki Twins Owner’s Forum (KTOF) appears to be lost and gone forever…

 

13 Comments

  1. Merlin

    Hello,
    I have a 1978 KZ750B2. I live in Phoenix, Az, and when I ride it in the heat (105) the idle will not stay steady. I adjust, and adjust, and adjust and get the manual sated 1,000 rpm idle. Once I start riding, this changes (usually drops). Many times it will come to an idle, and then die a few seconds later. When it’s cooler out, this seems to happen less, but it has still died while at idle. I have adjusted in cool and warm weather, and when the bike is both cool and warm. When I’m driving, it runs and sounds fine. I ran the pilot screws out to give it more fuel and have adjusted the idle knob as well. That only resulted in popping and a whisp of white smoke out the pipe when I rev it after about a miute of idle (stop light). Did the opposite, no smoke, still dies. It is missing the decel cable on the throttle, but the spring is stout and it seems to close consistently every time. It has about 32,000 miles on it. I’m guessing the cable, fuel evaporating in a hot carb, or spark plug gap?
    Any help solving this would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks!!!

  2. ben

    I am café raceing my 750 twin ,could you tell me what other petrol tanks woul fit it ,mine is a ltd 1980 .looking for something lower and longe many thanks

  3. Léon

    Hello Kawa-friends.
    To make some place in my garage.
    I have to sell a compleet engine(except carbs) Kawasaki Z 750 twin (from 1976).
    Not Sized, with 6kg compression on each side and looking clean…
    Can I use your site pages to put a classified ?
    Engine is in Belgium.

  4. Fred

    So i have a 76 kz750b just about a 82 kz750b engine went to swap them and realized the wiring was different and so was the top of the engine what do I need to do to make it work in my bike?

  5. Biquetoast (Post author)

    @Fred –

    I’m a dummy when it comes to electrical, but the ’76/’77 had their own old-school kind of stator, and also completely different regulator/rectifier. In my model-year notes on this site, it says that the ’78 started using a “modern stator/generator type (3-phase dynamo changed to single-phase in ’78)”. So the bottom line is that it’s different. You should compare the wiring diagrams from the Service Manuals (also found on this site), but you’ll probably be using quite a bit of the ’82 wiring harness to make it work! Good luck out there…
    -‘Toast

  6. KraZy D

    Has anyone tried looking for the Kawasaki Twins Owner’s Forum (KTOF) here? http://waybackmachine.org/ I don’t have the original home page url, but maybe someone still has it burried in their browser favorites. Worth a shot.

  7. Jeremy Pavlov

    @ KraZy D
    I actually tried that a while back. I recall that it had some of the page content, but it didn’t have the ability to reveal all the info that was in the database of that site. Unfortunately.
    -‘Toast

  8. macattak

    Yep, I do miss that web site. Not sure where to go for good info now.

  9. lucio

    Hi I am about to buy a 76 KZ 750,but what scares me is the engine double counter balanc mechanism, very costly to repair.The owner says that at certain RPM it starts vibrating and then desappear….would like a comment please
    Lucio ITALY
    paluci28@yahoo.it

  10. Biquetoast (Post author)

    @ Lucio –
    Yes, there’s a counter-balancer. It would be a terrible shaking lump without it! Mine have never been a problem.
    I agree with the sellers description, because counter-balancers can only do so much. They can only really perfectly work at a certain RPM and all the rest is just “help”. So I find that my 750s really vibrate the least around 60 mph or so… Then yes, vibration (or some people call it “buzz”) starts to appear between there and like 68 mph, then around 72-75 it’s fine. By the way, this is all subjective of course… one person may not mind it while another may. I put foam grips on mine and I don’t mind it a bit. Other people put vibration reducers in or on their handlebars. Whatever works for you.
    -‘Toast

  11. lucio

    THANKS FOR YOUR REPLY.
    Semms like its a normal thing this vibration.The seller put on another engine and same thing so realized it s a common weak point for this sort of bike.I ll go and get her in a couple of hors and let me tell you am very excited ,sound crazy but it s the truth,Rgds from Italy
    Lucio
    Lets keep in touch

  12. Eddie weaver

    Hi im Eddie has any one had petrol dripping from a breather pipe after turning of the fuel and letting it run out mine dose and I cant see why it had been stood a few years before I baught it of a bike shop it has had a full service and it is a 1976 KZ750 from the USA thanks.

  13. Biquetoast (Post author)

    @Eddie
    I have a couple thoughts on this… Every year, my bike leaks out the overflow a little bit when I first “un-winterize” it for the season. I store the fuel tank inside with a combination of 2-cycle oil and some other things, so I always suppose that the first tankful of fresh fuel slips past the petcock and the float needle due to the mix.. Just a hunch. Also, I’m convinced that the petcock’s inner workings need to swell back up to properly seal off the fuel after being dry all winter, but I’m not really sure. One thing I know for sure, is that the float needle won’t stop the fuel flow all by itself, so you really need a tightly-sealing petcock. You might have debris or rust bits or some other issue that’s stopping your petcock from sealing perfectly. You might have to disassemble it to investigate. If you find there’s a problem with the petcock and it just won’t seal no matter what, it might have to be replaced (fully or partially). I have actually purchased a replacement with a single outlet, a splitter pipe, and I threaten every year to replace it.. then it stops leaking about a week after first ride of the season. 😉
    -‘Toast

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