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Welcome to my little Kawasaki KZ750 Twin info site.

To get started, click on any of the categories at the right side of the page or the links at the top of the page.ย  Or if you need to find something more specific (like “service manuals”), use the search at the top right.

Enjoy!ย  …and thanks for stopping by…

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247 Comments

  1. vincent

    Good day Gents,
    Please excuse the fact that I am butting into this chat with a totally different question.

    What is the going price for a Kz750 motor-complete, still assembled incl carbs`, all though these are not fitted.
    I`m not sure at this stage which series, perhaps 70`s `cos it`s still got cooling fins on the exhaust header flanges.
    I can get more info off the motor if required. It`s just that I have ended up with a deceased estate in my garage and have`nt had the `courage` yet to move all of that to get to the motor !!

    I would appreciate it very much if any of your members could give me some pointers or suggest additional websites I could visit in this regard.

    Thank you for your time and trouble,
    kind regards, Vincent. Kempton Park. South Africa

  2. Biquetoast

    @ Vincent –

    Hi! When you eventually dig your way through to the motorcycle, make sure to check out the Kawasaki Twin Owners Forum (links elsewhere on this blog) or the KZRider.com forum.

    Good luck!
    ‘Toast

  3. Joe

    If you like to have a picture of a B4 with stock exhaust and only 3700 original miles and in truly superb 100% stock condition for your model-identifier please let me know. thanks joe

  4. Biquetoast

    @ Joe –

    Definitely! Send ’em along…

  5. new kz kid

    I just boutght a 1983 kz750 twin with belt drive. Im learning these were a one year model. What i dont know is if they are the same as the earlier models but with belt instead of chain or shaft. Also are the supplement manuals to be used in conjunction with another manual or are they complete. I can only find the supplements. I got it last wednesday 3-2-08 for $800 american .Not road ready needs some work, but i love it so far. So glad i found this site hope sombody can help me

  6. Biquetoast

    @ new kz kid –
    Yep, the ’83 is kinda’ unique in that sense, but there was an ’84 available in Canada only that was pretty much the same thing.

    The engine is almost the same as it was through the entire run of the 750 from ’76 – ’84, with some changes for electrical, emissions, and some other minor changes over that time.

    The way the manual works for your model is this: it uses the supplements to point out things that are new and unique for that model year, otherwise, the previous manual applies. One of the manuals here in this site is the like a ’79 or something, with the later model supplements…

    I hope that helps!

  7. Mike Lampkins

    Does anyone have a kz750 twin for sale?

  8. jordan mills

    Hey I have a lot of questions to ask here… I recently became the proud owner of a 78 kz750b and I was wondering is it a two stroke motor or four stroke? Cuz mine sounds like a two stroke which I’m wondering if it is supposed to… also it won’t run at all with the choke on…. not sure why??? The battery won’t charge so I. Have to kick start it everywhere I go which is a bitch cuz it damn near takes a mule to kick it over… it runs like a streak of s**t and has just over 17000 original miles but just has a few problems that confuse me a bit… also where is the best place to find parts for these things

  9. Biquetoast

    @ jordan

    Wow, that’s alot of items. With so many questions, you really should be posting these at the KTOF… But I’ll take a stab at a few…

    The bike is definitely a four-stroke, but I wonder if you have a mis-firing cylinder?

    The bike really shouldn’t be expected to run well with the choke on; but the the choke should be used only briefly to get it started.

    Sounds like you have an electrical problem (not charging) that will require some troubleshooting. I’d need some more specifics on the symptoms, but it could be some broken or cut wires…

    I’m not surprised that it is hard to kick-start, because it sounds like it is way out-of-tune. Once you get it tuned up though, the bike will start in 1-3 kicks.

    As for where to get parts… that depends upon which kind of parts. I have a “vendors” category here that you can reference…

    I hope that gets you started…

  10. jordan mills

    Thanks bique I checked it out some more today and found that it is chargin g the batterry… but it still just wraps out like a 2 stroke… I adjusted carbs all day and got it to start first kick every time… electric start don’t work unless I jump the points on the solenoid… have swapped solenoids only to still have that problem… I love this bike but it has proven to be a tough one to keep mechanically sound… I refuse to get rid of it though because from what I can tell its a rather rare find with so few miles… motor runs great after carb adjustments today… its snappy as hell but seems like it has no top end speed to it… just a whole bunch of acceleration that’s absolutely ridiculous… enough that I put a semi modified 883 sportster to shame today from stop light to stop light… lol my buddy wasn’t happy that a jap bike toasted his harley that he has spent so much on and I got less than 500 total in mine and that includes a 83 650 csr for a few parts I needed off of it… overall after screwin with it today I’m pretty satisfied and have definatly fell in love with a bike that is over twice my age… course everything was better back then… anyways before I rattle my jaws all night where do u live bique? Wantin to take a long ride this summer and figured where better than to meet a guy that shares the same passion for these old big twins…

  11. jordan

    At mike… I would sell mine if u wanna come to iowa and get it… gonna cost ya around 800 bucks to get her off me cuz what I got in it… it don’t look good but it runs great and is in good shape with only 17000 miles just needs new paiint and a tune up and its good as new

  12. jordan

    Anyone on here know where I could get parts to do a sprocket change on my 78 kz750b? Wanting to get more top end speed out of it and less brute accelearation… it takes of like a bat out of hell but has no top end to it… only will do about 110 going down hill with a strong wind helping you out… I hope I can find the neccesary parts for it to do about 130-140 like my speedometer tries to claim it will do… any help is very appreciated…

  13. Biquetoast

    @ Jordan

    For my 750s, I buy chains (530 Chain – RK 106 link ‘X’ Ring) and rear sprockets (JT 38t) from z1Enterprises.com.

    I buy front sprockets (SunStar 17t) from DennisKirk.com, since the sprocket (17t JT with 13t spline) they offer on z1Enterprises.com does not have the little hole for the lock-washer (it is more like Honda-style with the two-holes).

    Of course, you can put whatever sprocket combo you want, but if you’re already at a 17t on the front, you need to go smaller than the 38 at the back… maybe a 32 or so… and then compensate by removing some chain links or just getting a smaller one).

    The 750 does have buckets of torque at the lower RPMs. Personally, I do not care about that high rate of speed; in fact I discourage it. That is just not what these twins are all about. You’re on your own there, buddy…
    ๐Ÿ˜‰

  14. jordan

    Well its not the speed I’m after completely I just don’t like the fact that I’m wrapping. 5000 rpms at 70… not good on an old motor… so if I could get that down to about 3000 at 70 that would be better for it… 3 things kill motors 1.heat 2. Rpms and 3. Friction so if I can help it last longer by reducing those 3 things I’m going to do it lol all I want from this bike is a reliable and comfortable cruiser… pretty sure a kz750 twin was a great choice… also was gonna ask if you could explain what about different sprockets makes a bike faster on top end or quicker accelerating on low end… kinda confuses me how I know which sprocket would be a good choice for my use

  15. Mike Saenz

    Howdy from Texas. I recently aquired my first 750 twin and am smitten. I bought it as a parts bike but with the help of Ebay and Craigslist it’s almost a complete runner. My question is, where on the bike does the fuse panel go and where is the outage indicator located? According to the manual I downloaded (thank you very much), the fusepanel goes under the left sidecover. The problem is, my fusepanel seems to be attatched with a bolt and all I have left of the rectifier is a hook or slot and no bolthole. According to the parts diagram (again, thank you) everything I have appears to be correct. Any help or a pic is appreciated.

  16. Biquetoast

    @ Mike –

    Howdy, Mike. I just happen to have an old pic of my fuse box area (before I upgraded to blade-style fuses) from when I was installing the “coil power mod”. You can see the black fusebox at left, mounted to a rubber button (to isolate from vibration). Then the wiring is held at the bottom with a metal clip. I hope it helps…

    http://biquetoast.com/2-78kz750b3/pics/small/20051023-coilModCovered.JPG

  17. Mike Saenz

    Thanks bique. That helps a lot. Now where can I get that rubber button? It isn’t in the parts fiche. Any idea about that outage indicator location? Thanks again, Mike.

  18. Marvin

    Hi. I have a 1976 Kz750B. I gave a hundred dollars for it two years ago. Had to do a tune-up and some carburetor work, had 19,000 original miles. Had the tank painted and the seat redone and my wife and I have put about 30,000 miles on it. I also had to buy one side cover cause it blew off at a high speed one time. With my wife and I one time ran it up to about 110 MPH, she weighs about 220 and I weigh about 160. Sometimes I think it don’t even know we are on it. That was when I had a 17 tooth sprocket on the front and a thirty-eight on the back. It turned about 4200 rpm at 70 mph. Now it has 17 tooth on the front and a thirty-two tooth on the back. Now its 3200 at 70mph and I don’t even wanna know how fast it is and hardly any vibration. Would not trade for any bike. No way!!!

  19. Biquetoast

    @ Marvin –

    That’s awesome. Hey, do you know how many links are in your chain with the 17/32? I always wondered about doing something like that… I might some day…

    – ‘Toast

  20. Mick

    I am in the midst of rebuilding my ’83 kz750 ltd. Does anyone have any good links or references for this rebuild. I know I need a motor for sure. any help would be appreciated.

    Thanks, Mick

  21. Biquetoast

    @ Mick –

    I have a few different sites listed on my “references” page (you can find the link to the right), so that should get you started. And some good interactive help at a couple of the forums I list will go a long way toward getting you started….

    ๐Ÿ™‚

  22. jordan

    marvin i would like to talk to you because i would like to do something along those lines to my kz… just wondering how… i dont like revving 4500 at 70… not good on the motor at all… you can email me at jordanm08@hotmail.com or call my phone… i can give number in email… kinda hard to get ahold of me by email but very easy by phone…

  23. robert

    I have a 1976 KZ750 it has 18k miles It sat for 2or 3 years. I started it and it was poping on the right side. I have cleand the carbs and adjustedthem also set the time and points. I stil have the sam prob. Itruns great wean held at a stedy speed. and at idel. but will pop when ideld at about 3k and when you let off the throtel. Any ideas?

  24. Biquetoast

    @Robert
    I’m betting that even though you’ve cleaned the carbs, some of the teeny-tiny internal passages are still lined with gummed-up fuel. If I were you, I’d add 1/2 a small can to a full tank of gas, and let it work over a few days while you test run it here and there. The seafoam will slowly break down the gummed up fuel and in 2 or 3 days you’ll be better off. I mean there might be other problems, but at least you’ll know that gummed fuel isn’t the cause anymore.

  25. Michael

    Hi all,
    good to find this website ๐Ÿ˜‰
    If you like some additional information – although provided in german language – you may visit http://www.z750twin.de.
    If you would like to have a look at some pictures of customized Z750Twins go to http://www.z750twin.de/Umbauten.htm
    If you would like to look at some pictures of the recent z750twin meetings in Germany (from 2002 til today) and Belgium (2005) go to
    http://www.z750twin.de/treffen.htm
    Enjoy!
    If you like to stay in touch please send me an e-mail to michael.6666 at gmx.de (to prevent spam please rewrite e-mail adress in your e-mail app / program)
    Best regards,
    Michael

  26. Biquetoast

    @Michael
    Thanks for stopping in! I’m very familiar with your awesome site, and will be back of course…
    -‘Toast

  27. steve

    Looking for a good second hand short rear guard for a KZ-750B2 twin.
    Regards Steve
    New-Zealand.

  28. PAUL NOLZ

    Hello Biquetoast
    Fastenal carrys the correct size and quality starter clutch bolts ,I think it was less than $6.00 for all 3 .I believe they have stores all around the US .
    http://www.fastenal.com/web/home.ex
    Below Kz400 Scrambler
    http://www.fedrotriple.it/scrambler_kawa_cfm.html
    Below KZ 750 Scrambler (9th pic down )
    http://www.classicfarmmotorcycles.com/special.htm

  29. PAUL NOLZ

    I forgot to add my 1977 KZ750 is getting married to a 1984 Honda XR500R to bad I wont be able to post pic’s here ,my european 1997 BMW R80GS Basic was suppose to be the best big enduro bike ,for the money I spent what a piece of @#&%$*()!!!!So know I’ll put a fine motor with fine suspension and build my own.

  30. PAUL NOLZ

    Fastenal Part No. (SKU) 0135930
    M8-1.25 x 10mm CL 12.9 DIN 912 Zinc Socket Head Cap Screw
    Fastenal Part No. (SKU) 0135931
    M8-1.25 x 12mm CL 12.9 DIN 912 Zinc Socket Head Cap Screw
    Could not remember if they were 10mm or 12mm long

  31. jordan mills

    hey bique its me again… with another question…. my 78kz750 had a rear tube go bad on my spoke rim… was wondering if you could tell me what size tube that would be??? i know the tire is a 4.00 by 18 is that the same for the tube as well?

  32. Paul Nolz

    Hello
    I have some good news concerning KZ 750 air filters.I just did a bunch of digging and found out that a lot of tractors and mower engines use almost the same filter as our 750’s but ,they look like they might need a very small bit of surgery to get them to fit. Lowest price online with the fram number was 6.95 + 5.00 shipping here :
    http://www.oilfiltersonline.com/CA9248-FRAM-Extra-Life-Extra-Guard-Air-Filter
    The OD is perfect 3.5′ the length is 1/4′ to long but I think they will fit .
    Sorry I do not have the money to get one and try it .
    Auto Zone will order it for 15 dollars and change advance 13 and change .
    If you go to the fram website : http://www.framcatalog.com/Application.aspx?b=F
    and put in the fram number it will give you a pic and a real big list of what it fits .
    I hope this helps my fellow KZ 750 riders
    Fram CA9248
    also
    KOHLER-2508302S
    BRIGGS & STRATTON-820263
    KAWASAKI-110137029
    TORO-1083811
    JOHN DEERE-M113621
    WALKER-50901
    GRAVELY-21512500
    CLUB CAR-102558201
    EXMARK-932195
    TORO-932195
    KUBOTA-K121182320
    KUBOTA-K258182311

  33. Paul Nolz

    Hey the oilfilters online website I listed above has the fram oil filter for the KZ750 also for $6.95
    http://www.oilfiltersonline.com/CH6014-Fram-Extra-Guard-Motorcycle-Oil-Filter

  34. Paul Nolz

    Hello again a little update on my above post .I just happend to look at my 1977 airbox and saw that the perch inside the airbox that the filter sits on can be removed with 3 bolts so the length does not matter.The filters I spoke of above has one end closed anyway .So you would just drill a 3/16′ hole in the middle of the closed end on the filter and a 3/16′ hole in the middle of the steel cap that screws down on the filter box.I think this is only rubber used on the closed end of the filter so you will have lay a piece of 3-1/2′ long flat bar also with a 3/16’hole in the middle across the filter end so the nut does not pull through the rubber(or in a pinch any can lid with 3-1/2’OD would work also).So now put a lock nut on a piece of 3/16′ threaded rod long enough to run up through the filter and the cap ,use a 2nd lock nut on the cap now the filter is bolted to the cap,lower it down into the airbox screw the cap on and finished(use lock nuts only you don’t want a nut getting sucked into your engine!!).Now you have a good quality filter you can get anywere without paying through the nose just because it’s a motorcycle part .
    Paul

  35. Paul Nolz

    PS Don’t forget to plug the bolt holes with silicon in the bottom of the airbox

  36. Tony Wood

    I was wondering if you might know which model my Z twin is. It was regd Feb ’79 Chassis No KZ750B-23850. I had an owners handbook for a Z750B2 and a Kawasaki workshop manual for a KZ750 with it. I’m sure mine is a UK bike as the bar height, mudguards and indicator positions are different on the KZ. Also I’ve had trouble insuring it as insurance companies keep telling me they don’t list a 750B until 1983/4 and the model my reg no comes up with is a different cc. Insurance companies!!! Any information, comments you may have would be appreciated.

  37. Biquetoast

    @Tony

    According to the numbers I have, you have a ’77 Z750 B2. See this page for reference:
    http://kz750twins.com/?p=248
    I’m sorry I can’t help with the government folks there in the UK…. after all, they’re government… ๐Ÿ˜‰
    When I went to register one of my 750’s here in the states, I had a similar problem. I just pushed back a bit, got the right people on the phone, and eventually got it handled.

    – ‘Toast

  38. Paul Nolz

    Hello Tony Wood I think somebody messed up with your papers through the years my 1977 KZ 750B2 VIN is 022893 .I just looked up a vin decoder for older bikes like ours without 17 numbers that are reqired after 1981 and came onto a site http://www.zedder.com
    this is perfect it says a
    1977 KZ750-B2 started with frame number KZ750B-016101 to 025629 and motor number FROM KZ750BE016101 TO 02562
    http://www.zedder.com/Info/77%20KZ750-B2.htm

    And a 1978 KZ750-B3 started with frame number KZ750B-25701-033033 and motor number KZ750BE25701-033074
    http://www.zedder.com/Info/78%20KZ750-B3.htm

    So tony if this is correct it looks like you have a 1977 like mine but if it stayed in a crate or in some dealers showroom until 1979 this could be why it says 79 on your papers.Some states do not care what year the bike really is just the year when the 1st reg was done.
    I think Bique thought you are from england when you said you think your bike is a english bike .I belive that in england they are called just Z750’s
    My advice to clear this mess up is ,If you live in a state were getting a lost title is not a problem get a notorized bill of sale for the bike with the proper year and vin & motor numbers on it and apply for a new title if you know anybody living in TN it’s real easy just download TN gov. PDF form Certificate of Ownership fill it out go to DMV pay around $70.00 3-4 weeks later you get a title. There are a lot of title service agency’s in Nevada make sure your will take a title from their .Or just Google title service
    Good Luck

  39. JMD

    Does anyone know where I can order float carb gaskets for my 1979 KZ750-B4 model?

    Also, haven’t decided 100% yet, but MAY be interested in selling my KZ750. As you can see from a previous post, below, I’ve now owned this bike for 31 years. It’s a great runner, everything is stock on it except for custom seat and exhaust pipes. Replaced stock pipes / seat in early ’80s with 2 into 2 pipes. Sure wish I hadn’t, now.

    I’ve owned this bike since it was a year old, and it is a part of me. Would only be willing to sell it to someone that appreciates these types of bikes and would give it a good home. I also have the backrest with it and a Vetter fairing that I used to use on it years ago. It’s in very nice shape for something that is 32 years old, original paint job is in great condition, etc.

    I had a total tune up on it 1 1/2 years ago. Although I’ve always loved this bike, I just don’t have time to ride all my bikes, even though I even weeded out 3 of the others last year, I just can’t find the time to ride them all sufficently.

    If interested, please contact me at: bull_durham98@hotmail.com Please put in the subject line “1979 KZ750” so I don’t delete as spam.

    JMD
    1965 Honda C110
    1973 Kawasaki Z900 (Sold)
    1975 Kawasaki Z900
    1976 Kawasaki KZ900 (Sold)
    1978 Kawasaki KZ1000 (Sold)
    1979 Kawasaki KZ750
    2005 Kawasaki Nomad

    ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++=

    JMD says:
    May 13, 2010 at 9:13 pm
    I have owned a 1979 KZ 750 B4 twin for 30 years, bought it when it was a year old. If you are into old bikes, it is very, very dependable. They donโ€™t bring much money at all, for re-sale, as the bike was never popular, even when it was brand new. If you are selling it to make money, donโ€™t expect much. Iโ€™ve kept mine because itโ€™s dependable, smooth riding. One thing though, is this bike has always been a very cold starter, usually have to throw a little choke on it even in warm weather for a bit.

    JMD
    1965 Honda C110
    1973 Kawasaki Z900
    1975 Kawasaki Z900
    1976 Kawasaki KZ900
    1978 Kawasaki KZ1000
    1979 Kawasaki KZ750

  40. PAUL NOLZ

    Hello fellow KZ Riders
    Well a little update on my posting from above regarding the Fram CA-9248 air filter ,we all can say thanks to my brother for being the guinea pig,he bought this filter and installed it with no mods .He said it was a little tight sliding onto the tube on the cap but a little WD-40 took care of that.His bike is a bone stock 1979 KZ .I just got off the phone with him and he said it ran good on his run into work this morning .Will let you all know if any problems pop up.
    Hope this info helps someone out Ride Safe Paul

  41. Alan P

    Does anyone know anywhere i can get an electronic ignition from people say z440 ones fit be do they actually work cheers Alan

  42. Biquetoast

    @Alan P
    Hello; I actually wrote a post on this very topic. You can find it under the categories to the right, or use the search box to search for “ignition” or similar. I hope that helps!
    -‘Toast

  43. Alan P

    anyone have photos or diagrams as electrics just go over my head (its work of the devil)

  44. Alan P

    ta will leave it on points

  45. Alan P

    pointless get it as for the web site

  46. gene g

    where do i buy a carb rebuild kit for my 1981 are 1982 kz750 please help

  47. Biquetoast

    Not sure if you made a typo there or not; of course there is no ’81 KZ750 twin. But if you mean the ’82, there have been some carb parts and kits on eBay in the past… and depending on the parts you need, you might just need some float bowl gaskets or jets, which are available from places like Z1Enterprises.com here:
    http://www.z1enterprises.com/catalog.aspx?pid=KZ750-M1-1982-CF0
    Maybe other readers could chime in with carb rebuild kit locations (or tips) for the later models, if any…?

  48. Larry

    Greetings! Owned a KZ Twin in the 70s. Bought a nice 82csr a couple years ago with great feedback from this site. Complete rebuild & paint – now a daily rider.

    Does anyone know how the sliding cable from the frame works? it appears to be a lock of some type.

  49. George

    Thanks for the great read. It was exactly what I was looking for.

  50. gene g

    can anyone recomend a good after market speedo and cable for my 1982 kz750 twin

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