Speaking of budget, I thought I’d post my parts/shopping list for the upgrades as I do them.

For my first 750, I decided to try building the stainless lines myself from components, instead of buying pre-built sets.  I found a site that had a good reputation and price (mgcycle.com, a Moto-Guzzi specialist shop), and contacted them with some questions.  The proprietor was a bit surprised when I told him I do not have a ‘Guzzi, but he was kind and helpful nonetheless.

Together (over a few emails), the salesperson and I came up with this list, made up of “Earl’s Brake Line Components”:

• 8 Copper crush washers, $0.75 each = $6
• 2 #600503 30 degree adjustable banjo fitting – 2 x $16.50 = $33
• 1 #600803 30 degree non-adjustable banjo fitting – $12.25
• 1 #600703 straight non-adjustable banjo fitting – $10.50
• 3ft #6000031 clear plastic covered braided stainless steel brake line – 3 x $7.75 per foot = 23.25

….for a grand total of $85.

Believe it or not, he ended up sending me enough excess line that I have enough to probably do the rear brake… someday.  Be forewarned though, that the “Earl’s” brand is sold as individual components; meaning you cut the lines (here’s a tip, wrap it in masking tape when you go to cut with a sharp hacksaw), you assemble and crimp the ends (another tip: use some heat-shrink tubing for a professional look), and you get poked alot in the fingers by tiny little sharp stainless wires.  Okay, it’s not that bad, considering the savings…

I have since found a couple other great vendors for stainless brake lines.  For instance, z1Enterprises.com started selling pre-cut/crimped lines in various lengths (the kind that has a swivel that you screw together), so I used those on my KZ400 with great success, for even less money, believe it or not.

HEL Performance has special pre-built kits labeled/indicated as for the 750B models, and the Y models.  Though they cost a bit more than doing it your self, it looks pretty convenient.  I’d like to hear from you if you’ve used these!

Also, Spiegler sells separate kits for the front (S-KA0080, $109.95) and rear (S-KA0079, $56.95), labeled as designed for the ’76 B1 (surely designed to accommodate the hardline and the front-mounted caliper).

Remember, as always, I don’t endorse any of these vendors, I’m just passing along what I have seen out there…  Anyway, I will update you all later when I get around to doing my other 750…

There are a few options as I see it:

• Dealer:  Yes, some dealers still actually keep old, stock, factory-cut and coded keys around.  They might even be glad to sell them to you just to get rid of them.
• Local locksmith:  Many of them carry stock keys for your model and only need the code to create one for you.
• Ebay:  Duh.
• Online:  Where I have had keys made quick and easy online, MotorcycleKeys.com and Key Men, Keys For Classics.

Though online services are quick and efficient, they are usually cut with a best effort from an old guide.  I have used the online services mentioned above and had really good success, though not 100% accuracy to the original key cut… but they work.

There really is nothing better than a stock/original key, like from a dealer’s old stock or eBay if you can find them… it’s worth waiting for…

So, here is a short list of my favorite online motorcycle stores:

- OEM, Parts, Misc. – Jeff and Z1Enterprises.com
- OEM Extremely Rare Stuff – BikeBandit.com
- Tires, OEM, Misc. – RonAyers.com
- Tires, OEM, Misc. – Motorcycle-Superstore.com
- Parts, Misc. – DennisKirk.com
- Motorcycle Clothing, Misc. – NewEnough.com
- Electronic Parts, Relays, Etc. – PartsExpress.com

My favorite OFFline motorcycle stores/shops:

- All bike maintenance I don’t want to do (read: tire changes)  -  Howell Cycle (517) 546-3310 (Careful, they won’t work on old bikes, but *do* work on some parts if you don’t tell them what year they’re from)  -  Old-school mechanic, fair prices, small shop, Kaw-only

Someone gave me the link to affordable BikeMaster brand handlebars at AZMotorsports years ago when I was looking for cheap SuperBike bars.  Well, that company was acquired (by RideNow), and the website has changed 50 million times, and at last check seems just about impossible to navigate to find the bars.

…but I keep chasing down links for these affordable bars where I can…

BikeMaster Handlebars

So, here are some links to the extremely affordable SuperBike bars (and other BikeMaster bars):
Link 1, from Amazon.com (via Motorcycle Superstore);
Link 2, directly from Motorcycle Superstore;
Link 3, from Z1Enterprises (I’m not sure if these are BikeMaster Brand)

I have these superbike bars on my first 750 and my 400.  The bars have held up for me very well in the handful of years of regular use since 2004 or so.  No rust (though kept indoors), and still appear to be the same shape in which I got them.

I happen to think that SuperBike style bars are the perfect handlebar for the ’76 – ’79 750 Twin (maybe later ones, too, but I don’t have one).  The bike is naturally high in front, so the SuperBike bars don’t end up being as low as you might fear.  Not too much pressure on the wrists, just a perfect up-lift from the air draft at speed.

Just so you know, when you put these SuperBike bars on the 750, the front master cylinder is a very tight fit.  In fact, you will need to loosen the stock banjo bolt ever-so-slightly, and turn it down just a tad to fit around the gauges.  On the other hand, it is a great time to change out the brake line to braided stainless steel…

For my second 750, I got the Bikemaster “Daytona” model for a slightly more stock look, though they have a bit less rise and pullback that the stock bars.  I don’t like them as much as the Superbike bars for ride position, but it was much easier to swap in since it fit in easily without shorter cables, cramped brake lines and master cylinder, and so forth.  And I still don’t have that “getting my nails done” wrist position…

Years later, at the time of this writing in Jul 2009, the stator is still going strong.