But first, a few points:

• I know many people like clear fuel lines because you can see through them for troubleshooting fuel flow;  I even used to like them for the same reason.  But now I never use them because over time they get hard and brittle, and easily loose their seal when jostled, sometimes at the side of the road, sometimes just while riding.  Even if you take the extra insurance step to use mini clamps, the seal can fail in time.  On the other hand, if you use a reputable brand rubber fuel line you will not have these problems, and you won’t need clamps.
• I change my fuel lines and filters every year when I return the bikes to use for the riding season.  But even if I lived in a year-round riding climate, I’d still change them yearly.  It only costs about $10 to replace it all, and you don’t have to worry about clogged filters, rotting lines, etc.
• Never use paper-element fuel filters.  It’s not a lawn mower.
• Plastic inline fuel filters get softened by fuel over time, and can bend to the point of restricting fuel flow if you’re not careful.  So be careful.

Supplies list:

• 1 early model KZ750 Twin
• 1 package of 1/4″ x 24″ fuel line (Good Year, Prestone, or whatever is at your local auto parts store)
• 2 inline 1/4″ brass-element mini fuel filters (I get them from z1Enterprises.com whenever I’m ordering something else, but you can probably get them at any bike shop)

When the KZ750 was designed, apparently the engineers never thought we’d have to worry about fine rust particles in the tank or inline fuel filters to compensate.  Silly engineers.  As a result, if you run without inline filters, installing fuel lines is an easy, intuitive breeze.

However, since this is the real world, most of us do have to worry about rust, and we do have to use inline filters.  And because of this, we have to do crazy, creative things in order to have room to accommodate the filters… and not cause them to bend and shut down fuel flow as they soften from extended contact with fuel… or melt from contact with the back of the engine.

And this is why I’ve written this post;  My goal was to find the best way to run the best fuel lines with the best fuel filters.  Oh, and for me, “best” means “best possible at the least reasonable expense”. 

So we start with my garage plan chicken-scratch drawing on the back of a dirty envelope to help convey my design layout:

Pathetic Diagram of Petcock, Fuel Lines, Filters, Carbs

So, we start with one package of reasonable brand fuel line.  I’ve always used Good Year line in the past, but this time AutoZone had Prestone.  Whatever, it’s 24 inches of 1/4 inch inner-diameter standard fuel line.

Package of Reputable Brand 1/4" x 24" Fuel Line

As the design drawing above indicates, cut the line into four pieces as follows: 4″, 4.5″, 5″, and 10.5″ (or whatever is left).

Filters and Fuel Lines, Cut To Size

Assemble the parts so that the natural curves in the hose works in your favor, so that when assembled, the filter will be stressed as little as possible.  I’m not sure if you can tell from the pic, but the curves are opposite.  Here is the assembly order:

Left: Petcock -> 10.5″ hose -> filter -> 4″ hose -> Left Carb

Right: Petcock -> 4.5″ hose -> filter -> 5″ hose -> Right Carb

Assembled Fuel Lines And Filters

Assembly Step 1:  Connect the right line to the right carb.  I hope you have small hands, it’s tight in there.  You may have noticed in the pics that I have the tank sitting up on a wooden block for space.

Step1- Right Line To Right Carb

Assembly Step 2:  Complete the right line connection to the right output of the petcock.

Step2 - Right Line To Petcock

Assembly Step 3:  Now feed the left side line assembly in from the right side, around the throttle cables and connect.

Step3 - Left Line To Petcock

Assembly Step 4:  Finally, bring the line around and behind the other right side line, to connect to the left carb.

Step4 - Left Line To Left Carb

Here’s a finished view.  Note that the filters are spaced offset from each other, they are not bent or stressed, and the lines and filters are not touching the engine.  And hey, don’t hassle me about how dirty the engine/carbs are, or that there are old hornets nests that I’ve never cleaned out…  It’s a working man’s bike and that’s how I like it to look… 

Final View

One additional caveat though…  If you use the original stock ’76 – ’78 side covers, you will have to cut away a bit of the cover to accommodate the fuel line running where it was not intended to be.  But if you do it with a nice, smooth arc, it doesn’t look out of place.

Side Cover Cut-Away

I hope that helps!

…And this important caveat from the author, “…the earlier bikes have 38mm carbs where as mine is 34mm so keep that in mind. If your using it on other models there are probably other bellows at the auto parts store that would work if this one won’t fit for you. Just go during a slow time and have the counter guys help you rummage through the shelves. Most of them are pretty good sports.”

I needed replacement intake air ducts, because I had one good intake duct and one off of something else.  As I’m sure the rest of you 750 people know, the ducts are very hard to come by.  Frankly, I wasn’t all that pleased with the design anyway, so I stopped hunting for one and came up with my own.

Moog mod, side view, on bike

Here’s what I used:  Rack and pinion bellows for a Prizm.  You can buy them right online from O’Reilly….

MOOG – R/P BELLOWS (93-83 LEXUS/TOYOTA)
Item No: K9321
$26.99 per Box (at this writing)

Moog R/P Bellows

Bought two new ones and cut them to fit.  Works great.  Has some give, so it will handle the vibration.  Much easier to connect to the carbs, and seals better than the originals I think, too.  I haven’t put the carb clamps on yet because I don’t have any.  I’m working on that next but it’s such a nice snug fit I almost don’t think it’s necessary.  It’s automotive grade rubber so it should be okay with the heat.

Did all the work on it while the air box was still in the frame too which was no small feat I might add.  Still retained all the original components (except the ducts).

Here’s a shot of the business end.

Moog mod, inside airbox view

Here’s a shot showing the bellows are actually sandwiched in between the clamps.  The seal is impervious to water.  All the air must pass through the air box opening and the filter.

Moog mod, bellows-clamp view

Note from Biquetoast:  Please note that I have not done this/these mod(s) myself, so I cannot validate any of the claims here, nor do I know the models for which this will work.  Although if you’re a 750 twin rider like me and AtLarge, you will likely face the need to find replacements like this someday too.  So if you ever try this, please let me know and I will update this page if I ever do this as well.  Good luck!!

The O-Ring(s)

Unlike *normal* motorcycles, the KZ750 Twin requires a crazy figure-8-shaped o-ring for the oil chamber cover.  The hands-down best thing for this is to get an N.O.S. o-ring for this, since nothing else fits as well.  But in a way, you have and alternative, giving you 2 main options for replacing the o-ring:

1. Kawasaki o-ring Part # 92055-084, which I’ve seen listed for anywhere between $10-$20 in various places around the ‘Net
2. The o-ring included in Fram Filter CH6014 (see below)

The Filter(s)

I have always read (and you might have too) about quality challenges in certain manufacturer’s oil filters.  But I’m not going to spend big bucks for expensive filters either.  So, I have decided to mitigate any concerns, and regularly alternate oil filters between each change.

I’m sure there are other filters than the ones I list below, but I’ve arrived at a certain pattern of use over the years, and for better or worse, here it is…  For me, there are 3 basic options:

1. Fram CH6013 – $7.28 – This is the filter that is listed for the KZ750 Twin on some parts sites.  It does fit.  It does work.  It includes 2 o-rings: an o-ring for the oil bolt that you *can* use, and a large round o-ring that you can fling at your buddy, or toss right in the garbage.  It does *not* include the figure-8-shaped o-ring.  I typically do not buy this model.
2. Fram CH6014 – $6.95 – Same filter as the CH6013, and the same small o-ring for the oil bolt, but this one *does* contain what I would call an “attempt” at a figure-8-shaped o-ring that you can actually attempt to use.  Being frank here, you can make it work, but it is not easy, because it is not perfectly shaped.  But you can get it in place and get it sealed with a little patience.  And it may just be the last hope to find the figure-8-shaped o-ring when I have bought up all the N.O.S. ones from eBay…  Did I just write that…?  I typically buy these and alternate them with the Emgo ones below…
3. Emgo 10-24400 – $3.80 – No o-rings.  And you’ll like it.  I typically buy these and alternate them with the CH6014 above.

I have bought these in the past at various places, including the links I provide above, as well as some of the places I list on my “Misc. Vendors” page.  Then there’s eBay, of course…

By the way, I’m not affiliated with any of the links provided… and make no promises regarding them… and prices were valid at the time of this post.

Good luck!

Someone gave me the link to affordable BikeMaster brand handlebars at AZMotorsports years ago when I was looking for cheap SuperBike bars.  Well, that company was acquired (by RideNow), and the website has changed 50 million times, and at last check seems just about impossible to navigate to find the bars.

…but I keep chasing down links for these affordable bars where I can…

BikeMaster Handlebars

So, here are some links to the extremely affordable SuperBike bars (and other BikeMaster bars):
Link 1, from Amazon.com (via Motorcycle Superstore);
Link 2, directly from Motorcycle Superstore;
Link 3, from Z1Enterprises (I’m not sure if these are BikeMaster Brand)

I have these superbike bars on my first 750 and my 400.  The bars have held up for me very well in the handful of years of regular use since 2004 or so.  No rust (though kept indoors), and still appear to be the same shape in which I got them.

I happen to think that SuperBike style bars are the perfect handlebar for the ’76 – ’79 750 Twin (maybe later ones, too, but I don’t have one).  The bike is naturally high in front, so the SuperBike bars don’t end up being as low as you might fear.  Not too much pressure on the wrists, just a perfect up-lift from the air draft at speed.

Just so you know, when you put these SuperBike bars on the 750, the front master cylinder is a very tight fit.  In fact, you will need to loosen the stock banjo bolt ever-so-slightly, and turn it down just a tad to fit around the gauges.  On the other hand, it is a great time to change out the brake line to braided stainless steel…

For my second 750, I got the Bikemaster “Daytona” model for a slightly more stock look, though they have a bit less rise and pullback that the stock bars.  I don’t like them as much as the Superbike bars for ride position, but it was much easier to swap in since it fit in easily without shorter cables, cramped brake lines and master cylinder, and so forth.  And I still don’t have that “getting my nails done” wrist position…

Why try LED lights?  Some people say they are brighter.  I assure you most are not.  Maybe because they draw less power from your old motorcycle wiring harness?  This is likely true.  On the other hand, you might have an analog brake light failure indicator that will now think the light has failed, since it can no longer sense the current draw back there…

Many LED light vendors go on and on about their lights being bright.  Okay, they might *seem* brighter in the dark or at dusk (when all those photos seem to be taken), but in direct sunlight, LED’s are just plain harder to be seen, especially when used as a replacement in a stock lense cover.  The light actually needs to be *brighter* than standard to overcome this challenge.

I can’t remember where I got my first set of standard 24-LED bulbs for turnsignals for my first 750.  Some place off eBay, I think.  They are kinda crappy, but they are ok as long as you look at them straight-on (though not as bright as non-LED), since all 24 of the LED’s point straight away from the socket.

Then, I bought some “wide-angle” 24-LED turnsignal bulbs from superbrightleds.com for my second 750 (to try and solve the straight-on-only problem), and they are worse than the others I have.  In hindight I know why:  these are slightly rounded and spread out the light to fill a reflective lense (with 18 LED’s facing straight back, and 6 LED’s radially mounted); but the early KZ turnsignal sockets have no reflective backing.  Here’s what you need to know – these type of LED replacement 1157s are basically crap.

Anyway, to cut to the chase…. in all of my testing with different lights, I actually have come across a couple LED’s that actually are bright… *really* bright… In my opinion, they are as bright or brighter than regular 1157′s.

So as a result, here are the only L.E.D. tail/brake/turn lights I’ll use and swear by:

• The Radiantz 1.85″ Direct Base LED cluster from Custom Dynamics, item desc.: “Direct Base LED Cluster Item: GEN-20-R-1157″
• The 3 Watt Luxeon 1157 bulbs from superbrightleds.com (My new favorite for value/quality!)

Of course, there are size and heat limitations involved when using these unusual replacement lights.  The 3W Luxeons get very warm (but have not harmed my lenses yet).  The large cluster may not fit in your socket or your housing.  So there are caveats, but I have been using both of these (as tail/brake) on a couple bikes for about 5 or so years now (at the time of this writing) with no problems so far…

1. I want to get a reasonable amount of light (unlike the stock bulb), but…
2. Don’t want to spend a bunch of money on a fancy housing and H4 bulbs or an HID system, and…
3. Don’t want to draw too much power from the old bike’s harness and charging system.

The headlight bucket accommodates a standard, round 7 inch bulb (unlike the earlier kz400′s and the like), so our options are just about wide open.  So, I think I’ve settled on one type of headlight for my bikes: Sylvania or Wagner H6024 (60/35 watts or 60/40 watts) sealed beam Halogen Headlamp.  Make sure the box says “Halogen”!  You should be able to find them on the shelf of the local auto parts store, reasonably cheap.

Yep, old school, not fancy, just works.

If you are planning running on high-beam for long spans of time, or perhaps are considering a stronger headlight, you might want to consider installing a relay inline with the headlight power (like you would do if installing foglights on your ’72 Camaro).  The harness on these old 750′s don’t like your super-brighty-bright lights too much… and might decide to melt at 2am in the middle of nowhere…

After trying a few different kinds of replacement grips, I’ve come to like two in particular.  These are, in my opinion, the best blend/compromise of comfort, appearance, and affordability (in that order).

1.) This old-school grip is an OEM replacement style grip from the KZ400 and a few others.  I like how the little rubber “fins” keep your hands isolated from the buzzing on the 400.  I’ve never tried them on the 750, but I bet they’d be great.  I have read where some people dislike them because they lose some “feel” of the throttle, but I’m no racer after all…  Here’s a picture of the stock 400 grip:

KZ400-style Stock Grip

2.) But as much as I like that that old OEM style grip, my favorite for the 750 is: ProGrip Custom Style 860 grip.  I get them from Dennis Kirk, but they are available from alot of places.  I now have them on both of my 750′s.  They have a nice style, a good feel, and they isolate vibrations without being too squishy.  A caveat though:  after a few riding seasons of heavy use, the foam on my grips was pretty much flattened out, losing most of the absorption and comfort, and requiring replacement.  This is not a big deal, since they are only $10 or so…  Another interesting facet of these grips is that I was able to remove the foam over the late Autumn and early Spring seasons when I use my Oxford Hot Hands Heated Wrap-Over Grips grip warmers, in order to keep the over-all grip thickness down, but that is another post.  UPDATE:  This can be tough to install, because they are a tight fit (see comments below).  But you *can* get them on all the way if you use a good slippery solution and use lots of force (but be careful not to break the plastic tips off!).

Pro Grip 860